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(This is my first written tutorial,
so please bare with me. :-}
)
First off, this tutorial assumes
you can create a basic E6/1
top, and that you have a working
knowledge of chainmaile in general.
Here's what the rounded out
cups of the underwired top look
like:

Before I added the 'boning',
the top laid very flat against
the chest, and gave no support.
The boning was added to the
front of the piece, as
shown below:

**NOTE: Adding the smaller
rings in this fashion will 'cinch'
together the larger rings, which
will create a tighter weave
in the areas that you require
more support; thus creating
a 'boning' effect. This is the
reason the smaller rings
are placed on top of the piece.
If you use this weave on the
'inside' of your top, it will
cause that area to 'buckle out'
instead of 'cinching in'. For
example, the smaller rings placed
on the outside of the top, along
the bottom of the cups, cinches
together the area under the
breasts and creates an underwire
effect.
In this case, I am using
18 gauge 1/4" ID, boned
into a 16 gauge 3/8" ID
E 6/ 1 pattern.
I've not yet tried this with
any other gauges or ID's, but
I would suggest if you wish
to use different sizes then
the ones I used; for the smaller
ring, choose an ID that fits
inside of your larger rings,
and about 1-2 gauges smaller.
This is just a guess, so feel
free to experiment.
The 'boning' goes through three
rings at the connection point
of 2 rings from the bottom row
and one ring from the top row,
like so:

The boning rings do not
go through to the bottom of
the piece.
If you've woven it through correctly,
you will not see the boning
rings if your turn the piece
over to it's backside. Weave
in the smaller rings along the
connections in your piece that
require a 'boning' or underwire.
This is where I wove in the
underwire into the above top:

And this is a diagram of all
the place that have the 'boning,
to create a really full cup:

The yellow along the top was
just where I used this effect
to trim the edge. This pulled
the semi-loose weave tighter,
and made for even more fullness
in the cups.
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